Old Hawaiʻi, One Rainy Afternoon at a Time
There's something about Hilo that feels like stepping back in time. Maybe it's the vintage storefronts, the farmers markets, or the way life moves at a gentler pace. Or perhaps it's the rain, which has a way of reminding you that there's really no need to rush.
Located on the lush windward side of Hawaiʻi Island, Hilo is wonderfully different from the sunny resort communities around Kona. It's less tourist-oriented, a little nostalgic, and full of character — and that's exactly what I love about it.
Behind its peaceful charm lies a remarkable history. Two devastating tsunamis, in 1946 and 1960, reshaped Hilo's waterfront. The town rebuilt, and today its historic streets tell a story of resilience. The Pacific Tsunami Museum is worth a visit for anyone curious about this part of the island's past.
My advice? Bring an umbrella, find a good coffee, and enjoy the slower pace.
Downtown Hilo — one of the most authentic, unhurried towns in all of Hawaiʻi.
Photo: Rei / COULTOUR
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is one of the most extraordinary places I've ever been — and one of the most unpredictable. The park is home to Kīlauea, one of the world's most active volcanoes, and what you'll see on any given visit depends entirely on current volcanic activity, which can change from week to week.
When conditions allow, the glow from the caldera at night is something I won't forget. The Kīlauea Overlook offers a view into the crater that makes you feel very small. The Thurston Lava Tube is a short walk through fern forest into a cathedral-like tunnel formed by ancient flows. The Chain of Craters Road descends to the coast through a moonscape of hardened lava.
A word of honesty: volcanic activity is never guaranteed. But the park is extraordinary regardless. If witnessing an active eruption matters to you, check current conditions before you book — the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory updates daily, and the National Park Service website shows current activity levels.
The park deserves at least a full day. Two days lets you explore at a more relaxed pace, including an early morning visit to the caldera when the light and mist are at their most dramatic.
Inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park — from the ancient lava tubes to the ever-shifting caldera.
Kīlauea caldera — the living heart of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
A Special Encounter with the Nēnē
One of our favorite discoveries had nothing to do with lava. We encountered nēnē — Hawaiʻi's native goose and state bird — near the crater rim. By the mid-20th century, the wild population had fallen to just a few dozen birds; thanks to decades of conservation work, their numbers have recovered significantly.
Seeing them in their natural surroundings was such a lovely experience that I later painted them. Sometimes the smallest encounters become our favorite travel memories. If you're lucky enough to spot nēnē, admire them from a respectful distance and never feed them.
An encounter that stayed with me — my original oil painting of nēnē on Hawaiʻi Island.
Painting: Rei / COULTOUR
Our First Volcano Getaway
The first time I visited the volcano, it was a spontaneous trip with our friends Mike and Carolee. We flew from Honolulu to Hilo — barely 45 minutes — and drove straight to the park. We had no grand plan. We just wanted to see it.
We stayed two nights at Kīlauea Military Camp (KMC), which sits right inside the national park. KMC has a nostalgic, almost summer-camp atmosphere — forget the infinity pools and fancy cabanas. And to my delight, there was a bowling alley. Yes, we went bowling near one of the world's most active volcanoes. Not exactly what most people imagine when planning a Hawaiʻi vacation, but that's what made it memorable.
We spent our evenings at Volcano House, the historic hotel perched on the rim of the caldera. The dining room has one of the most dramatic views of any restaurant in Hawaiʻi — you're looking directly into the crater, and if there's any glow, you'll see it from your table. Even without an active eruption, the setting is extraordinary. Check hours and book ahead if you're planning an evening visit.
That trip — two nights, a short flight, a very different side of the island — remains one of my favorite Hawaiʻi experiences. It's the kind of thing I love helping people plan.
A note on eligibility: Kīlauea Military Camp (KMC) is a U.S. Armed Forces Recreation Center. Eligibility is limited to active duty, retired military, DoD civilians, and certain other authorized guests. It is not available to the general public.
Kīlauea Military Camp — a hidden gem inside the national park, open to active and retired military families.
Photo: Rei / COULTOUR
Dinner at Volcano House — the only lodge inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, with views straight into the caldera.
The rainforest around Volcano Village — hapu'u tree ferns, mist, and silence.
The Hāmākua Coast
Driving north from Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast, you pass through dense rainforest, past waterfalls tumbling down sea cliffs, and through small towns that feel like they've barely changed in fifty years. It's one of the most beautiful drives in Hawaiʻi.
Akaka Falls State Park is worth a stop — a short loop trail through lush jungle leads to a dramatic waterfall that drops straight into a gorge. Waipiʻo Valley, further north, is one of the most sacred and visually striking places on the island: a deep green valley with a black sand beach at its base. The valley floor is accessible only by guided tour or on foot; private vehicles are not permitted on the steep access road.
The Hāmākua Coast — waterfalls, sea cliffs, and one of the most dramatic drives on the island.
The COULTOUR Little Black Book
Hilo rewards the curious eater. The food scene is unpretentious, deeply local, and genuinely good.
Breakfast & Bakeries
Two Ladies Kitchen
Famous for their mochi and Japanese-style sweets. A Hilo institution — the line moves quickly and the mochi is worth every minute.
Café 100
The home of the loco moco, a Hilo original. No-frills counter service and a menu that hasn't needed to change in decades.
Lunch & Local Plates
Hilo Farmers Market
Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Fresh fruit, plate lunches, tamales, and local produce. Go early for the best selection.
Suisan Fish Market
A Hilo institution since 1907. Fresh poke made daily, right at the counter.
Dinner
Hilo Bay Café
The most polished dining option in Hilo. Farm-to-table menu, good wine list, relaxed atmosphere. Reservations recommended.
Volcano House Restaurant
Inside the national park, overlooking the caldera. Worth the drive — but check hours and book ahead.
The Hilo Farmers Market — the best place to taste the island before you've even unpacked.
Where to Stay & What to Know
Two to three nights is the right amount of time to explore Hilo and the volcano properly. The Grand Naniloa Hotel, a DoubleTree by Hilton on Hilo Bay, is the most convenient full-service option. For something more intimate, there are several charming bed-and-breakfasts in the hills above town.
If you want to stay near the volcano, Volcano village — just outside the park entrance — has several excellent options, including Volcano House inside the park itself. Staying adjacent to the park means you can visit the caldera at dawn or dusk, when the light and atmosphere are at their best.
Volcanic smog (vog) is a real consideration when Kīlauea is actively erupting. People with respiratory conditions should check current vog levels before visiting. Hilo's weather is genuinely unpredictable — pack layers and a light rain jacket, and don't let a cloudy morning discourage you.
The drive from Kona to Hilo takes about 2.5 hours via the Saddle Road (Highway 200), which cuts across the island between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. It's a dramatic drive and perfectly safe in a standard rental car.
Why Hilo Stays with Me
Hilo and the volcano represent a side of Hawaiʻi that most visitors never see. No mega-resorts, no beach clubs — just a landscape of extraordinary power, a town with genuine character, and a pace of life that feels like a real alternative to the polished resort experience.
I find myself recommending this part of the island more and more, especially to travelers who've already done the Kona-Kohala circuit and want to see something different. It's the kind of place that surprises people — and that's exactly why I love it.